Aside from having to adjust to a new currency, I sometimes need to deal with a new measure of weight, especially when buying groceries at the wet market.

The tael or loeng2 (両) is one such unit of weight, as seen on this scale. The catty or gan1 (斤) is perhaps the one unit that I hear of the most often when getting vegetable for instance. This is used commonly in small grocery stores (maybe big ones too) and in wet markets alike. A gan1 is worth ~604.8 g and ~1.333 lb, a measure in the same “Western” range of weighing in kg or lbs, which is generally used for consumer-quantities of food.

These are Hong Kong units of measurement, formed under the influence of the British imperial system.

Lining up for free stuff is definitely one of those “strange things” taken from a North American perspective. Free stuff here is never taken for granted, and a line usually naturally forms without much external force.

People are very eager to get their free stuff, and this line (for shake-in flavoured chips from Japan?) stretched for a good 30-40 metre, under the rain…

Les gens qui ont écrit l’article possèdent probablement une meilleure connaissance des relations internationales, mais ça me choque à chaque fois de devoir me taper les prénoms à la place des noms de famille. En chinois, LE NOM DE FAMILLE S’ÉCRIT DEVANT LE PRÉNOM. Pis c’est pas si dûr de se rappeler la règle que le nom de famille est composé d’un seul caractère, et donc d’une syllabe.

Voilà qui est dit.

Adam Met Karl, also better known as AMK, is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. For the occasion, the Hong Kong indie band is releasing a boxset with 6 CDs containing all their works, plus a video DVD of their concerts. Prices or locations to buy this collection object have not been released yet, but you can go check out their Facebook page for more infos…

www.facebook.com/pages/AMK-history/172360648787/

AMK is an influential band for Hong Kong’s scene today. While it retired for more than a decade, a few years ago, Harbour Records released a cover album named In the name of AMK with many well-known Hong Kong bands.

Because AMK’s albums are nowhere to be found second-hand, I am particularly looking forward to this boxset’s release…

Coal

Wind

(In fact, it’s important to note that electricity generated by the coal power plant is used to power most of Hong Kong Island…)

The Beer Bay, Discovery Bay Pier

Si ça se trouve que vous attendez un traversier pour rentrer sur votre île, la meilleure façon de tuer le temps, c’est de vous prendre une pinte de bière importée du Beer Bay. Le Beer Bay est un établissement légendaire avec ses deux adresses situées l’une à côté de l’autre à Central Piers, les quais pour la plupart des îles et ports en pourtour de l’île de Hong Kong. Ces destinations étant des lieux de résidence privilégiés d’expatriés occidentaux, le Beer Bay est en effet majoritairement fréquenté par ceux-ci.

Beer Bay, Lamma Island Pier

The Beer Bay importe donc une bonne liste de bières, incluant beaucoup de noms obscurs d’Angleterre, comme la Doom Bar, une douce ale fruitée, en fût (20HKD la pinte – 3CAD) ou la Green Goblin, un cidre fermenté dans des tonneaux en chêne brassé par Wychwood (40HKD la grosse bouteille de 600 mL – 6CAD). Les mardis soirs, la Doom Bar et les autres bières en fût (c’était la Heineken et la Hoegaarden l’autre soir) sont 15HKD (2.25CAD!) la pinte.

Comme en font foi les photos ci-dessus, le Beer Bay n’est ni un bar, ni un dépanneur, en fait. Puisque c’est une pratique acceptée de boire en public ici à Hong Kong (de plus qu’il n’y a pas de lois contre cet usage comme en Amérique du Nord), les escaliers à côté du Beer Bay se transforment en terrasse extérieure lors du Happy Hour. D’ailleurs un dépanneur 7-Eleven dans un quartier de bars, on appelle ça un Club Seven ici.

Eating local in Hong Kong is a rather hard thing to do. The most local food usually gets are fruits and vegetable from over the border in China’s Guangdong province.

However, if you are living in the “countryside”, like on Lamma Island, chances are that you might be finding a small farm next to where you are living. This is what I discovered when my friend who has been living on Lamma for some time took me to this small chunk of land, in the small valley at the entrance of Tai Peng village, cultivated by an man maybe in his 60s. With his peasant hat, tool in hand, he seems to be straight out of some old movie, growing his vegetables on this island that is better known for its seafood, great outdoors and hippie culture.

(Next to their field, they are going to be developing new houses… so who knows if the farm’s going to last.)

For one HKD (13 Canadian cents), you can get about three branches of choy sum (菜心), with gigantic leaves. For the same price, you can also get more than enough of green onions (蔥), for what would cost 2-3 times more in Lamma’s grocery stores, and 4-5 times more in my hometown in Canada.

The next day, I came back for some yeen choy (莧菜), a kind of Chinese spinach with red pigmentation on its leaves also called Amaranth, a lad tougher than the regular kind of spinach. A portion for that evening’s dinner cost me two HKD (about 25 Canadian cents). They were delicious, fried with garlic and salt.

The lettuce, the man said, were going to be plump enough at the end of November…

A view of the field as dinnertime approaches…

…and my sink at dinnertime

Edit (2010-01-02):

Au fil des défaites à plate couture et des victoires à la pelle en temps supplémentaire, je suis mon équipe tout aussi passionnément de l’autre bout du monde. Tandis que des American-born Chinese prennent pour les Angels de LA, et que la plupart des Hongkongais friands de sports contemplatifs (et pour les gageures) préfèrent leur English Premier League, les Canadiens de Montréal demeurent mon équipe de sport préférée.

Je rencontre à l’occasion des Québécois (ou néo-Québécois même) expatriés à Hong Kong avec lesquelles j’échange sur la maudite blessure à Markov ou la passoire à Price (qui a bien joué hier), mais le culte pour mon club se pratique généralement seul.

Et à l’occasion, on lit les dernières nouvelles (vieilles de 36 heures) du Canadien dans le SCMP, journal en anglais lu généralement par la soit-disant élite, ou bien on voit apparaître Carey Price sur notre petit écran au moment où on s’y attend le moins. C-à-d à la toute fin des nouvelles sportives.

Pour les Québécois parmi mon lectorat, imaginez Ginette Reno reprises par les artistes indie (et plus) les plus connus au Québec. Rebecca Pan (潘迪華), c’est une chanteuse née en 1931 à Shanghai qui a débuté sa carrière musicale dans les années 50 à Hong Kong. Si le nom vous dit (peut-être) quelque chose, c’est parce qu’elle a joué un petit rôle dans In the Mood for Love (celui de Mrs. Suen, une des madames shanghainaises) et que son tube Bengawan Solo (une chanson traditionnelle indonésienne) est dans la bande musicale du film.

Cet album est un peu ce que ça serait à Hong Kong, avec en plus des chansons en duo avec l’artiste originale…

***

Basically, to translate, I got this new tribute album to Rebecca Pan (潘迪華), who is a famous Chinese singer starting from the 50s. She might be known in the West for her appearance in In the Mood for Love, and a song in this film’s soundtrack.

Aside from covers, there are also original songs and duets. The artists who contributed to the album are all well-known names of the Hong Kong “indie” and sometimes mainstream scenes. That’s PixelToy, My Little Airport, the pancakes, at17, Eason Chan, Chet Lam and GaYumYan.

C’est en marchant avec une Québécoise vivant sur l’Île de Lamma que j’ai découvert le Hong Kong Petanque Club (anglo pour l’internationalisme, mais français de fondation). J‘aurais pensé trouver un club de boulingrin avant un club de pétanque sur ce territoire pourtant anciennement britannique.

Le club existe depuis 2007 et a été fondé par Éric, un Parisien originaire du sud de la France. Le club se réunit tous les dimanches au village de Tai Peng (大坪) sur Lamma, mais des parties peuvent être organisées par le club à tout autre moment. Quand je me suis présenté dimanche dernier vers 17h, il y avait une bonne dizaine de joueurs.

Golden Lake brothel at night…

…and during the day.

One of my most popular posts ever on Comme les Chinois, was when in March 2008, I re-posted on a friend’s article on a friend’s impression (as a passerby) of Shanghai Street in Kowloon.

Why was it so popular? Because Shanghai Street, along with Portland and Reclamation Streets in their Mong Kok and Yau Ma Tei portions (between Shantung and Dundas) are often synonymous with the sex trade and is home to one of Hong Kong’s most well-known red-light districts. Day or night, as seen in the previous pictures, brothels operate as if prostitution was legal in Hong Kong. You walk around these streets at any time, and you will notice lit-up signs in flashy pink, or the red/pink neons hanging outside on the street or inside the staircase leading up to the establishment.

Perhaps most shockingly comes the “price list“, where the Chinese girl goes for HKD250 (CAD35) and the Malay or Filipina girl will make your wallet lighter by HKD200 (CAD28).

Langham Place

The Mong Kok red-light district is in fact just one or two blocks away from flashy Langham Place, a commercial complex that opened in 2004 and whose unavowed goal was to “sanitize” the neighborhood west of Nathan in Mong Kok. In terms of urban renewal, Hong Kong has used this stratagem before, in the early 90s with Times Square (時代廣場) in Causeway Bay and more recently with the apm shopping mall in Kwun Tong, which opened in 2005. While Times Square was a huge success, developing a largely residential area into the location to be for brand-name shopping in Hong Kong, it is still to early to tell if this would have the same effect on Langham Place’s surroundings.

A walk in the neighborhood (during the day) is quite uneventful. The area mostly has home renovation, and construction material, and metal shops, with a brothel at about every 50-100 meters. Ah-suks (uncles) working in the businesses look at you funny, but what seemed to be pimps, left you alone as you took a quick picture of their premises (without them in there, of course).

As it provides an “essential service” in a city of about 7 million souls, the Hong Kong government should leave this part of the city alone, as long as the triads don’t start shooting each other in broad daylight.

Home renovation and green light

Chinese BBQ

And now, on a cultural note… In Chinese, “ordering chicken” (叫雞), like in getting chicken from a Chinese BBQ shop, is slang for patronage of female prostitutes. So, “ordering goose/duck” (叫鵝) is the patronage of male prostitutes…