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La Plaza Swatow dans le Quartier chinois ouvrira ses portes au grand public le 1er août 2010. Il aura fallu près de trois ans, entre le moment où la pancarte annonçant la construction du centre commercial aux vocations multiples (un resto, un supermarché, du stationnement, des petites boutiques et de l’espace à bureaux) n’eût été posée et son inauguration.

Au fil des années, je me suis interessé à ce projet qui promettait de revitaliser un Quartier chinois aux trous béants et de plus en plus mis au défi par le deuxième Chinatown qui se développe aux abords de l’Université Concordia, loin de l’establishment d’origine cantonaise et hongkongaise.

La Plaza Swatow s’appelle 長盛廣場 (Changsheng Guangchang) en chinois, ce qui veut dire longue prospérité, alors que « Swatow » c’est l’ancienne romanisation de la ville portuaire de Shantou. Au delà des noms, ce centre commercial, qui a bien l’intention de durer, est la première construction majeure dans le Quartier chinois depuis celle du complexe Guy-Favreau et la Place du Quartier en 1983.

Cet article est également publié sur le blogue Spacing Montréal.

Je ne vais plus au restaurant Hong Kong, sur Saint-Laurent à Montréal. Lorsque j’y suis retourné la semaine dernière, juste pour voir, pas pour manger, j’ai remarqué qu’on avait complètement changé l’intérieur, et qu’on avait tout enlevé le mur qui séparait le comptoir du BBQ chinois du reste de la salle à manger.

Le Hong Kong est probablement l’un des plus vieux restaurants chinois du Quartier chinois qui soit encore debout aujourd’hui. Dans les années 80, lorsque j’étais enfant, je me souviens qu’en bas du Hong Kong, il y avait une poissonnerie du nom de Kowloon. Comme une blague que seuls ceux qui connaissent Hong Kong comprendront (car sur le territoire de Hong Kong, Kowloon est la partie péninsulaire en face de l’île appelée Hong Kong).

Dans un des premiers articles de ce blogue, écrit il y a plus de deux ans, je reprenais des photos prises du Chinatonwn par mon père en 1984. Le restaurant Hong Kong existait déjà, mais c’était une épicerie sur de la Gauchetière, avant qu’un incendie vienne la ravager quelques années (mois?) plus tard. Ça, je ne m’en souviens pas du tout.

Boulevard St-Laurent en 1984, photo par Jean-Pierre Sam

I know that I should stop amazing for these things, but I just can’t help it. These are photos of a new shop on rue Ste-Catherine Ouest in Montreal (near du Fort). It has been replacing the old Movieland (physical world video rental, what a backward business model) for at least the past month, I asked one of the clerks. It is basically borrowing from the concept of small shops within a big one that you see a lot over here in my corner of Asia.

Viewshop is like the little brother of the department store model. Most of the shop(s) belongs to its owners, but small open spaces within it are rented out to tenants, such as the Korean cosmetics booth (Korean brands like LaNeige are hugely popular all across China).

Some of the products sold in the shop are remarkably Chinese. They could be sold in some upscale-ish store in Shanghai or Hong Kong, I feel. On one side, it’s all clothing, all for women I think, and on the other, you would find various electronics gadgets (alarm clocks, USB cup heaters) and fancy stationery (an apple-shaped notepad?). Then, a small (bubble tea) café, and the cosmetics.

Yes, the owners are Chinese, after I asked, but wasn’t that already obvious? Yup, that is Montreal’s other Chinatown, far from Asian fonts clichés.

Maybe I became colour-blind with Montreal’s Chinatown, but San Francisco’s struck me in awe as spectacularly multicoloured — especially in shades of fluorescent orange, green and yellow. Well contrasted with generous usage of the Asian font and you find a Chinese America from a past era, or at least, forever stuck in a generation’s imagination of what a Chinatown should look like.

Somehow, it’s an interesting walk, in the same way a walk at Windows of the World is interesting.

Clay Street 企李街

Grant Street 都板街

Washington Street 華盛頓街

Pâtisserie La Légende 麗晶餅屋 undergoing renovations

Pâtisserie-restaurant Callia (嘉莉／麵包茶餐聽)

Side of Pâtisserie Harmonie 麵包蜜語

Whereas the Chinese “food scene” (you can hardly call it a food scene when a city lacks quality Beijing and Shanghai cuisine) in 2009 has been dominated with the arrival of numerous restaurants and eateries opened by Mainland Chinese immigrants in Montreal’s new Chinatown, that of the traditional Chinatown on De la Gauchetière (between St-Urbain and Clark) was mostly revamped in the past two years with new Cantonese-owned shops, three of which happen to be bakeries.

Already in the winter of 2008, Harmonie (麵包蜜語) shook Montreal’s Chinese bakery standards by opening at the corner of St-Urbain and De la Gauchetière. Buns left to die on a colourless counter were a thing of the past. Now, Chinese pastries and other bite-size delicacies or cakes would be served in a decor on par with at least what you would see in Hong Kong or other larger Chinatowns of North America: lit-up counters, uniformed staff, floral decorations.

A year later in April 2009, a first competitor Restaurant Callia (嘉莉) was opened (by the family owning Chinese restaurant Keung Kee) across the street. It added the dining space and kitchen that Harmonie did not have, serving Hong Kong’s famed Cha chaan teng-style food of milk tea, beef brisket noodles and Italian noodles in Cantonese sauce, under big TV screens spouting soaps from TVB.

Now on my last visit of Chinatown during the Holidays, I noticed that my grandparents’ favourite (and personal longtime favourite, for lack of anything else) M.M. Légende took over the trendy “Asian-style” clothing store next door and hid behind wooden planks as it is undergoing renovations. For the past two years, I believe that it was to become the first casualty of the Callia/Harmonie combination. So instead, it renamed itself as Pâtisserie La Légende (麗晶餅屋) and decided to expand. Follow-ups would be greatly appreciated!

Maybe now this first casualty would be Dobe & Andy (right under of Kam Fung) if they don’t change. I’m now curious to see what is going to happen with this new huge space for a cha chaan teng, in spite of more restaurant space made available with the imminent inauguration of Plaza Swatow (長盛廣場).

Saturation, or serious signs of Chinese Montrealers moving back to Chinatown? My opinion is that this will largely depend on affordable parking space made available in the area from the Swatow building. Right now, paid parking is prohibitively expensive (no incentive as in downtown Montreal) and free spots can only be found four or five blocks away. A pleasure for nearby residents and public transit users, but a chore for a certain class of car-going suburbanites that I grew up with…

If you are in Toronto on September 12th and are interested about the history of its Chinatown, be sure not to miss Mapping Chinatown, a Walkabout around Toronto’s Downtown Chinatown.

In the same theme, that of Toronto’s old Chinatown, I recently found out about East Chinatown (in Riverdale), which I read about on Spacing Toronto.

Montreal’s own Chinatown is changing. In this past decade and a half, a new Chinatown has emerged further west, close to Concordia University. My uncle and aunt who were visiting Montreal this summer, after being abroad in Hong Kong for more than 10 years now, told me that they were not aware of this second Chinatown. When she was a student at Concordia, my aunt never noticed such concentration of Chinese-owned restaurants and boutiques. (It was also a time when they could watch Hong Kong films in a movie theatre in Chinatown and see big Cantopop stars perform in the city.)

I’m very curious to see what Plaza Swatow, what seems to be the largest Chinese commercial centre in Montreal ever, will bring to our Chinatown(s) in the coming year.

Photos taken in Montreal’s traditional Chinatown, on August 29th, 2009, a pleasantly rainy Saturday.

Aperçu au Quartier Chinois de Montréal, à l’angle de la rue de la Gauchetière et du boulevard St-Laurent.

Pâtisserie-restaurant Callia (嘉莉／麵包茶餐聽) just opened over the weekend in Montreal’s Chinatown and I went to check it out.

I was initially surprised at how fast it appeared – I didn’t even notice that the former tenant, a Chinese restaurant presumably branded as upscale, had closed shop. The owners, I think, are from Hong Kong, based on the use of traditional Chinese characters. It is a Hong Kong-style bakery-restaurant and its restaurant part is better known as cha chaan teng (literally tea salon – but better known for that sub-genre of European-Chinese fusion cuisine evolved from the colonial era in Hong Kong.

Callia’s formula is the same as long-time incumbent MM Legende (Lai Tsing), which has been around for at least a good decade. The same stretch of De la Gauchetière between Clark and St-Urbain now has four different shops selling drinks and pastries. Is it going to be one too many?

Another cha chaan teng called Pêches used to exist across from MM Legende (downstairs from Bubble Tea L2 – where “My Cup Of Tea” used to be) but won the war of the cha chaan teng. Montreal Chinatown hardly sounds like a battlefield for this kind of business, but with Harmonie at the corner of St-Urbain, it seems this time unlikely that MM Legende could be able to compete solely based on looks – it is my grandparents’ one and only hangout place when they are in Chinatown.

A customer browsing Chinese pastries at Harmonie in Chinatown

MM Legende, bottom-right corner

However, we have yet to actually try things out at Callia. It was incredibly packed today as the staff (interestingly wearing suit uniforms) was selling stuff at a big discount for the grand opening. The dining room was a big mess. We’ll give their Hong Kong milk tea and whatever macaroni-in-its-broth a try before giving any non-aesthetic appreciation of the place!

Edit (2009-05-03): Apparently, this place was opened by the people of Keung Kee, a few doors down. I actually ate at Callia tonight and it was pretty good. My dad got a brisket noodles, while my mom had a Yu Hsiang Eggplant (with bits of delicious dried fish). I had a Brisket Rice with a cream soup with corn (not corn cream) and of course a standardly good Hong Kong milk tea.

I took advantage of Good Friday to go out with my camera to take pictures in the neighbourhood west of Concordia University. A new Chinatown has been thriving there for at least fifteen years. It was my personal experience as a consumer of Chinese food that usually led me to this area. It goes back to 1993 when Soupe et Nouilles’ (Ste-Cath & St-Marc) concept of a soup and noodles fast-food restaurant with its kitchen in front was still novel to many Montrealers.

What used to be confined to North Americanized versions of Cantonese and Szechuanese (Sichuanese) regional genres is now evolving along the growing student and immigrant population from Mainland China. We now see an influx of new quick food restaurants that you commonly find in China, like brochette (chuan – 串) and homemade noodles, dumplings houses.

The pork sandwich, two loaves of flat crunchy bread with a mix of braised fatty pork and coriander (see picture), can notably be found at a cafeteria-like resto on St-Mathieu north of the Metro exit. Homemade noodles and dumplings (topic of a photo-article to be published) can also be found in the neighbourhood as a dumplings house opened on a residential stretch of St-Marc close to the Canadian Centre for Architecture.

General Tao Chicken and Orange Beef, ubiquitous in any Chinese restaurant ten years ago, are nowhere to be found in these of Chinatown West’s newest components.

Chinese restaurants, but also hair salons, “Asian-style” clothing stores now live side by side with Middle Eastern épiceries, takeouts and shisha joints. Whereas Chinatown is evolving in a very dramatic way with the building of a shiny new shopping and business centre, I find that Montreal’s other Chinatown has perhaps changed in a more gradual and low profile manner. And I’m sure it will continue to surprise me, at least food-wise.

View

Montreal’s new Chinatown in a larger map

This article also appeared on Spacing Montreal.

La Plaza Swatow sur St-Laurent

La Plaza Swatow sur Clark

La Plaza Swatow（長盛廣場）, un ambitieux projet de 20 millions de dollars, prend forme lentement au coeur du Quartier Chinois de Montréal.

Donnant à la fois sur Clark et St-Laurent, l’immeuble s’élévera sur six étages et comprendra de l’espace commercial pour de petites boutiques et probablement un ou des restaurants.

De mémoire, cet emplacement avait toujours été un terrain vague, pratique pour passer de Clark à St-Laurent après avoir fini de bouffer au Ruby Rouge. Dans quelques mois, on pourra à nouveau y passer, mais ça sera plutôt à travers banques, épiceries ou autres petites boutiques.

L’ancien et le nouveau Swatow, septembre 2007

La Plaza Swatow en mai 2008

Ça avait fait bien du sens en mai 2008, lorsqu’on a commencé à creuser le terrain sous la Plaza Swatow. Avec la crise économique mondiale qui frappa, je me suis bien demandé si la construction du bâtiment allait s’arrêter en plein milieu. En fait, si je me fie à cette photo datant de 1983 prise par mon père, la dernière construction d’importance au Quartier Chinois coïncidait aussi avec une autre crise économique (et les promoteurs espèrent aussi que ça ouvrira à temps pour la reprise).

Depuis que je vis en ville, le Quartier Chinois est un lieu où je retourne pas mal plus souvent. J’y ai rencontré de nouveaux amis, découvert de nouvelles façons de cuisiner. Alors, qu’on y construit un grand complexe, je ne peux y voir que du bien. Six étages, c’est beaucoup d’espace, mais je pense que la population chinoise grandissante à Montréal le justifie bien. On se croise les doigts pour qu’ils ouvrent des restaurants et cafés avec la même variété qu’on trouve à Toronto ou Vancouver!

Une re-publication de cet article sur le blogue Spacing Montréal a attiré bien de la discussion !

[Cultural note 2009-03-20: The Chinese name of the project is 長盛廣場, or "Changsheng Guangchang" in Mandarin and "Coengsing Gongcoeng" in Cantonese (jyutping romanization), literally "everlasting blossoming". This is not what the name in English characters "Swatow" means - in fact, Swatow refers to the city of Shantou, as Kate McDonnell points out correctly on her blog. Why the discrepancy? I don't know, but it surely is because Swatow Import Export Inc. was named in Chinese as well...]